Gentle Hearth 川香静庐

Pantry · No. 02

Oyster sauce substitutes

蚝油 háoyóu

Short answer: For each tablespoon of oyster sauce, use a tablespoon of vegetarian (mushroom) oyster sauce, the closest swap. Without one, stir 2 teaspoons soy sauce with ½ teaspoon sugar and a pinch of cornstarch. Hoisin works as 2 teaspoons plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce, but it is sweeter and spiced. Use fish sauce sparingly.

Updated · Chinese reviewed: pending

What oyster sauce does in a dish

Oyster sauce began as oyster cooking liquid boiled down until it turned thick and brown. Most jars today are oyster extract seasoned with sugar and salt and thickened with starch, often with caramel colour, MSG or wheat flour added. It tastes salty, gently sweet and deeply savoury, with far less funk than fish sauce, and it pours slowly, a little like ketchup.

That gives it five jobs in a pan: salt, sweetness, savoury depth, body (the cling that lets a sauce coat a vegetable) and dark colour. No single swap covers all five. The useful question is which jobs matter in tonight's dish, and the table below says what each swap gives up.

The swaps, ranked

Amounts replace 1 tablespoon of oyster sauce. Scale up or down from there. The ranking follows how many of the five jobs each swap covers with the least correction.

Oyster sauce substitutes: amount for 1 tablespoon, what changes, and when not to swap
Swap For 1 tbsp oyster sauce What changes When not to swap
1. Vegetarian oyster sauce (素蚝油 sù háoyóu) 1 tbsp A little thinner and earthier, with no brine. Made from mushrooms, usually with soy and wheat. Rarely. Skip it only if someone at the table avoids soy or wheat and your jar lists them.
2. Soy sauce + sugar + cornstarch 2 tsp soy sauce + ½ tsp sugar + ¼ tsp cornstarch stirred into 1 tsp water Sharper salt, lighter colour, no oyster depth. Two or three drops of dark soy sauce bring the colour back. When oyster sauce is the headline of a short ingredient list: the dish will taste of soy, not oyster. For gluten-free cooking, only with a soy sauce labelled gluten-free.
3. Hoisin sauce + soy sauce 2 tsp hoisin + 1 tsp soy sauce Sweeter, with garlic and warm spice. Many jars also list chili and sesame. In a dish that already carries sugar; in a dish meant to be 不辣 bù là (no heat), unless your label lists no chili; for anyone avoiding sesame.
4. Kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) + soy sauce 2 tsp kecap manis + 1 tsp soy sauce, and cut the recipe's own sugar Much sweeter, syrupy and molasses-like. Close on body and colour, far on flavour. Dishes meant to taste savoury rather than sweet, or recipes that already use hoisin.
5. Fish sauce + sugar 1 tsp fish sauce + ½ tsp sugar; add up to 1 tsp more fish sauce only after tasting Saltier, thinner and more pungent, with no body or colour. Add the cornstarch and water from row 2 if the sauce needs to cling. Vegetarian cooking; anyone avoiding fish; plain dishes with little else to absorb the funk.

Published guidance disagrees on amounts. Some guides swap hoisin and kecap manis one for one; others say use less, or balance with soy, because both are sweeter than oyster sauce. Fish sauce advice runs from half the amount to equal parts with a close eye on salt. The amounts above sit at the cautious end, because it is easier to add than to take out.

Making the swap work

  1. Mix it in a small bowl first. Stir the swap together and taste a drop. Oyster sauce is salty and sweet at once; if yours tastes only salty, add sugar a pinch at a time.
  2. Add it when the recipe adds oyster sauce. Same moment, same pan, so the sugar and starch get the same heat the original would.
  3. Watch the sauce, not the clock. With cornstarch in the mix, let it bubble until the liquid turns glossy and coats a spoon. If it stays thin, loosen another ¼ teaspoon cornstarch in 1 teaspoon water and stir it in.
  4. Fix the colour last. Soy-based swaps cook up paler. Two or three drops of dark soy sauce bring back the deep brown; much more starts to take over the flavour.
  5. Stop when a piece of vegetable tastes seasoned on its own. Salty swaps go in by halves: add half, toss, taste, then decide on the rest.

Hoisin vs oyster sauce

They sit side by side on the shelf and both come dark and thick, but they do different jobs. Hoisin's Chinese name, 海鲜酱 hǎixiānjiàng, means “seafood sauce”, yet it contains no seafood. Oyster sauce does.

Hoisin sauce compared with oyster sauce
Point of comparison Oyster sauce Hoisin sauce
Chinese name 蚝油 háoyóu 海鲜酱 hǎixiānjiàng
Built on Oyster extract, sugar, salt, starch Fermented soybean paste, sugar, garlic, vinegar and spices; often chili and sesame
Taste Salty and savoury, gently sweet, briny underneath Sweet first, then salty, garlicky and spiced
Usually contains Shellfish (oyster); often wheat Soy; often wheat and sesame
Typical jobs Stir-fry sauces, braises, marinades, dressed greens Glazes and marinades for roast meats such as char siu; a dip, as with Peking duck
As a swap for the other Poor in place of hoisin: it brings brine and salt but little of the sweetness or spice. Workable in place of oyster sauce if soy cuts the sweetness (row 3 above).

Vegetarian oyster sauce

Vegetarian oyster sauce, 素蚝油 sù háoyóu, takes the oysters out and gets its savoury depth from mushrooms, most often shiitake, alongside soy, sugar and a starch. It looks much like the original and swaps one for one.

The name on the bottle varies. Look for vegetarian oyster sauce, vegetarian stir-fry sauce or mushroom sauce in English, and 香菇素蚝油 xiānggū sù háoyóu (shiitake vegetarian oyster sauce) on Chinese labels.

Two checks before it goes in the basket. Most contain soy and wheat, so it does not solve a soy or gluten problem on its own. And if the table is vegan rather than vegetarian, read the full ingredient list rather than the front of the bottle.

No bottle at all? Some cooks make a quick stand-in from the soaking liquid of dried shiitake, simmered with soy sauce and a little sugar, then thickened with cornstarch. Make only what tonight's dish needs.

Reading the jar

When the recipe does call for the real thing, a few label cues help, though none of them is perfect.

  • Protein is the rough tell. Oyster extract supplies most of the protein in oyster sauce, so more protein per serving usually means more oyster. Compare at the same serving size, because brands use different ones.
  • Ingredient order is a weaker tell than it looks. A Chinese consumer guide advises picking jars that list 蚝汁 háozhī (oyster extract) first. Pailin Chongchitnant of Hot Thai Kitchen compared brands and found list order did not track flavour, because brands define “oyster extract” differently. Some jars settle it by printing the percentage of extract.
  • Wheat is common. Many oyster sauces contain wheat, as flour (小麦粉 xiǎomàifěn on a Chinese ingredient list) or inside added soy sauce. Gluten-free versions exist; look for the words on the label.
  • After opening, most labels say refrigerate. Follow yours.
蚝油 háoyóu
Oyster sauce
蚝汁 háozhī
Oyster extract; literally “oyster juice”
素蚝油 sù háoyóu
Vegetarian oyster sauce
海鲜酱 hǎixiānjiàng
Hoisin sauce; literally “seafood sauce”
小麦粉 xiǎomàifěn
Wheat flour
配料 pèiliào
Ingredients; the heading of a Chinese ingredient list

Where the heat goes

Oyster sauce comes from Cantonese cooking rather than the Sichuan pantry. Lee Kum Kee credits its founder, Lee Kum Sheung, with inventing it in 1888 in Nanshui, Guangdong, and it has since become a staple of everyday Chinese home cooking.

Whatever goes in its place, the heat of the pot does not change. Oyster sauce and nearly every swap here season with salt, sugar and depth, not chili. The exception is hoisin, which often lists chili: read the jar before you call a bowl 不辣 bù là.

So in a dish with no chili in its base, the heat still lives in the bowl. Season the pot for everyone, then let each person finish their own from the tray: the chili oil or chili crisp you already own, ground roasted huajiao, black vinegar and sliced scallion. The draft per-bowl amounts are on the heat ladder, and the table tool builds each bowl's heat.

Sources

  1. The Woks of Life — Oyster sauce (Chinese ingredients glossary)
  2. Food Network — What is oyster sauce?
  3. Hot Thai Kitchen (Pailin Chongchitnant) — What is oyster sauce and which is the best one?
  4. America's Test Kitchen — All about oyster sauce
  5. Wikipedia — Oyster sauce
  6. Lee Kum Kee — Birth of Lee Kum Kee (company history, 1888–1987)
  7. South China Morning Post — The history of Hong Kong's Lee Kum Kee oyster sauce
  8. China Sichuan Food — Hot oyster noodles (on oyster sauce in Guangdong cuisine)
  9. 中国食品报 (China Food News), via Dayoo — 蚝油选用有讲究 (Choosing and using oyster sauce with care)
  10. 配料查 (Peiliaocha) — ingredient list of a mainland Chinese oyster sauce
  11. 配料查 (Peiliaocha) — ingredient list of a second mainland Chinese oyster sauce
  12. Lee Kum Kee USA — Premium Oyster Sauce (ingredients and allergens)
  13. A&E Food Store — US product listing with label text and storage line
  14. Lee Kum Kee Europe — Premium Oyster Sauce (UK ingredients and allergens)
  15. U.S. Food and Drug Administration — Food allergies
  16. Kids With Food Allergies — FAQ about the Food Allergen Labeling and Consumer Protection Act
  17. NCASS — What are the 14 allergens?
  18. Erudus — The 14 allergens list (Regulation (EU) 1169/2011)
  19. The Woks of Life — Vegetarian oyster sauce
  20. The Plant-Based Wok — Vegetarian oyster sauce
  21. Lee Kum Kee USA — Vegetarian Stir-Fry Sauce (ingredients and allergens)
  22. Tian Xin — Vegetarian mushroom oyster sauce listing (label name and ingredients)
  23. ESC — Vegetarian mushroom oyster sauce listing (label name)
  24. Omnivore's Cookbook — Homemade vegetarian oyster sauce
  25. Healthline — 6 terrific oyster sauce substitutes
  26. Tasting Table — The ratio for substituting oyster sauce with soy sauce
  27. Tasting Table — Best oyster sauce substitutes to use instead
  28. Tasting Table — The absolute best substitute for oyster sauce
  29. Cozymeal — Oyster sauce substitutes
  30. Fine Dining Lovers — Oyster sauce substitute
  31. The Woks of Life — Hoisin sauce
  32. Wikipedia — Hoisin sauce
  33. Lee Kum Kee USA — Hoisin Sauce (ingredients and allergens)
  34. Tasting Table — Hoisin sauce vs oyster sauce
  35. San-J — Hoisin sauce vs oyster sauce
  36. Wikipedia — Sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)
  37. ImportFood — Kecap manis product listing (ingredients)
  38. RecipeTin Eats — Soy sauce: types and when to use them
  39. Wikipedia — Dark soy sauce