Pantry · No. 03
Doubanjiang, the Pixian chili bean paste
郫县豆瓣
Short answer: Doubanjiang is a salty, fermented paste of chili and broad (fava) beans, the base of mapo tofu. The classic comes from Pixian, near Chengdu: look for 郫县豆瓣 on the jar. Brands differ in salt, so taste it first and start with two-thirds of the recipe’s amount. No jar? Miso plus chili flakes is a common stand-in.
What doubanjiang is
Doubanjiang is a paste of fresh red chilies and dried broad beans, fermented with salt and a little wheat flour. The best-known kind is made in Pixian, the old county just outside Chengdu that became Pidu District (郫都区, ) in 2016. The traditional chili is the local 二荆条 (). Pixian doubanjiang has protected geographical-indication status in China under standard GB/T 20560-2006, and it is on the list of products protected by the China–EU geographical-indications agreement, in force since March 2021. Chinese writers often call it 川菜之魂 (), “the soul of Sichuan cooking”.
In the pot it does four jobs at once: salt, deep savoury flavour from fermentation, a red colour, and some heat. It is the base of 麻婆豆腐 (, mapo tofu) and 回锅肉 (, twice-cooked pork), and mala hot pot bases use it by the spoonful.
The name, character by character
- 郫
- Pi, the name of the old county. The character is used mainly for this place name.
- 县
- County. 郫县 () is Pi County.
- 豆
- Bean. Here it is the broad bean.
- 瓣
- A segment, a petal, a clove of garlic. Together, 豆瓣 means the split halves of a bean, which is what the paste is made from.
So 郫县豆瓣 reads “Pi County bean halves”. Add 酱 (, paste or sauce) and you get 豆瓣酱 (), the word in most English recipes.
Reading the jar
Why this works: Chinese and US labels both list ingredients from most to least by weight, so a paste built on chili and broad beans shows them first. A traditional Pixian paste has a short list, typically chili, broad bean, wheat flour and salt, and nothing else. Andrea Nguyen of Viet World Kitchen notes that producers may print the characters left to right, right to left or top to bottom, so read the name in any direction.
- 配料
- The ingredient list.
- 辣椒
- Chili. Usually the first ingredient.
- 蚕豆
- Broad bean (fava bean). The bean is listed as 蚕豆, not as 豆瓣.
- 小麦粉
- Wheat flour. Typically present. On a jar sold in the US, the English “Contains” line should name wheat.
- 食用盐
- Salt, and plenty of it. See why recipes fail by brand.
- 辣
- Spicy. A jar that says only 豆瓣酱 may be a non-spicy bean paste; 辣豆瓣酱 () is the spicy one. Check the ingredient list for chili.
| On the label | What it is | Look and taste | Where it fits |
|---|---|---|---|
| 郫县豆瓣, aged (often sold in a bag or box) | Pixian paste fermented a year or more; some are sold as 3-year pastes, and some are aged longer. Typically chili, broad bean, wheat flour and salt. | Reddish-brown to deep purple-brown the longer it ages; chunky, with pieces of chili skin and bean. | Braises, soups, mapo tofu: dishes meant to taste of douban. |
| 红油豆瓣 (), red-oil paste | Younger Pixian paste, typically a few months old, with cooked oil (often rapeseed) mixed in. | Brighter red and glossy, with a fresher chili taste. | Stir-fries, where the bright colour shows. Everyday cooking. |
| Chili bean sauce, “toban djan” (for example Lee Kum Kee Chili Bean Sauce) | A widely sold chili bean sauce in a different style: it is made with fermented soybean paste as well as broad bean paste, plus sugar, garlic and flavour enhancers. | Less fermented depth, and often milder. The sugar and garlic are part of its taste. | Recipes written for it. A stand-in for Pixian paste when it is the jar you can get. |
| 豆瓣酱 with no 辣 and no chili on the list | A non-spicy fermented bean paste. | Brown, savoury, no heat. | Not a doubanjiang on its own. With chili oil it becomes a swap (see the swaps). |
Why recipes fail by brand: salt
Doubanjiang is very salty, and brands are not equally salty. China’s standard for Pixian paste, GB/T 20560-2006, allows up to 22 g of salt per 100 g. A 2020 study in Food and Fermentation Industries measured eight brands bought in Pidu and found salt from about 14% to about 20% by weight. The saltiest had roughly 1.4 times the salt of the least salty.
That spread is enough to ruin a dish. Two tablespoons (about 32 g) at 14–20% salt carry about 4.5–6.5 g of salt: roughly ¾ of a teaspoon to just over 1 teaspoon of table salt, before any soy sauce goes in. A recipe written with one jar and cooked with another can come out flat or far too salty.
The rule: taste the paste first
- Taste the paste first. A small dab from the spoon tells you how salty and how hot this jar is.
- Start with two-thirds of the amount the recipe asks for. If it says 2 tablespoons, start with 4 teaspoons.
- Hold back the other salt. Leave out the soy sauce and salt until the sauce has come together.
- Add after tasting. Taste the sauce with the food it will be eaten with. Add the rest of the paste if it wants more douban flavour, or a splash of soy sauce if it only wants salt. Stop when a bite with rice tastes seasoned, not salty.
Why two-thirds: in that study, two-thirds of a spoonful of the saltiest paste works out to a little less salt than a full spoonful of the least salty one (20.2% × ⅔ ≈ 13.5%, against 14.05%). So if the recipe was written with any of those eight jars, a two-thirds start adds no more salt from the paste than the recipe writer’s jar did, whichever of them you bought. Eight brands is a small sample, and your jar may fall outside it. That is why step one is tasting.
Paste salt calculator
US Nutrition Facts labels give sodium in milligrams per serving, with the serving size in grams. Copy the two numbers from your jar to see how much salt the recipe’s paste is really adding.
The formula, by hand: sodium in your portion = sodium per serving ÷ serving grams × grams used. To turn that into table salt, divide by 2,300: 1 teaspoon of table salt is about 2,300 mg of sodium (FDA).
A worked example, with made-up numbers rather than any real jar: a label reading 600 mg sodium per 10 g serving gives 600 ÷ 10 × 32 = 1,920 mg in 32 g of paste. 1,920 ÷ 2,300 ≈ 0.8, so those 2 tablespoons salt the pot like about ¾ teaspoon of table salt. Two-thirds of 32 g is about 21 g.
Run it for your old jar and your new one. If the new paste carries more sodium per gram, use proportionally less of it.
How to cook with it
- Chop it if you want a smooth sauce. Aged paste is chunky. Many cooks mince it with a knife or run it through a food processor first; others leave the pieces in.
- Fry it in oil first. Turn the heat down, add the paste to the oil and stir until the oil turns red and it smells fragrant. It burns easily, so keep the heat low to medium. The deep red of Sichuan sauces comes from this step.
- Match the amount to the dish. The Mala Market suggests about 1 tablespoon in a stir-fry for a hint, and 2 tablespoons in dishes meant to taste of douban, such as mapo tofu and twice-cooked pork, and more than that for water-boiled fish or beef and for mala hot pot. Apply the two-thirds start to all of these.
- Choose the jar by the dish. Cooks often reach for red-oil paste in bright stir-fries, and for the deep-brown aged paste in braises and soups.
Doubanjiang substitutes, with amounts
Amounts replace 1 tablespoon of doubanjiang. None is a match. Each keeps some of the paste’s jobs (salt, savoury ferment, red colour, heat) and drops others, so taste before adding any soy sauce or salt.
| Swap | For 1 tbsp doubanjiang | What changes | Skip it when |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Another Pixian paste, or 红油豆瓣 | 2 tsp, taste, then up to 1 tbsp | Salt and depth shift with brand and age. Red-oil paste brings its own oil, so use a little less oil in the pan. | Rarely. Just taste first. |
| 2. Chili bean sauce in the “toban djan” style | 1 tbsp, tasting as you go | Less fermented depth, often milder. It contains sugar and garlic, which the recipe may not expect. | The dish is meant to taste of douban, like mapo tofu, and a Pixian jar is within reach. |
| 3. Non-spicy bean paste plus chili oil | 1½ tsp bean paste + 1½ tsp chili oil | Keeps a fermented bean base. The heat is fresh chili oil rather than fermented chili. | The dish needs the paste’s thick body; this mix is looser. |
| 4. Miso plus chili flakes or chili oil | 1 tbsp miso + 1 tsp chili flakes or chili oil. Red or brown miso gives more depth than white. | Soybean ferment instead of broad bean. Smoother and less red. White miso is sweeter and milder. You set the heat. Add a pinch of salt only if it tastes flat. | You want it to taste of Sichuan rather than simply savoury and hot. Several cooks say miso can’t carry that. |
| 5. Gochujang | 1 tbsp and cut the recipe’s sugar; or 2 tsp gochujang + 1 tsp miso | Noticeably sweeter, from glutinous rice. Smoother, a different ferment (soybean and rice, not broad bean), and a clearly Korean taste. | The dish has no sugar to cut. Some cooks rank it among the worst swaps for Sichuan food. |
| 6. Fermented black beans, 豆豉 (), plus chili | 1–2 tsp chopped fermented black beans + 1 tsp chili flakes or chili paste; no soy sauce until you taste | Sharper and more pungent, thinner and less red. Salty: the beans are fermented with salt. | You want a smooth, thick sauce. |
Sources disagree, and the table says so. Chowmi ranks gochujang with miso as the closest swap; Greedy Girl Gourmet ranks gochujang among the worst; Omnivore’s Cookbook says neither gochujang nor miso has the fermented bean depth. Ratios differ too: for fermented black beans, published amounts run from ½ teaspoon to 1 tablespoon of beans. Start low. The Kitchen Abroad suggests chopping the beans so their flavour moves through the oil. Greedy Girl Gourmet finds jarred black bean paste too strong and too different to stand in at all.
When not to swap
- Dishes that are the paste. Mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork and a mala hot pot base are built on doubanjiang. A swap there makes a different dish. Buy the jar, or cook something else tonight.
- Two salty swaps at once. Fermented black beans, miso and chili bean sauces are all salty. If you combine them, or add soy sauce as well, taste before adding any more of either.
Doubanjiang and the heat at your table
Doubanjiang is base-bound. Its chili is fermented into the paste and fried into the oil at the start, so its heat cannot be taken back out at the table. For dishes whose heat is a finish, the heat lives in the bowl. When it’s cooked into the base, we print the floor.
- Mapo tofu has a floor of 微辣 (, a little heat) on our draft ladder. 待试 Draft: we have not yet cooked and logged it.
- Using less paste lowers the floor, and changes the dish. Less paste means less heat, but also less salt and less of the savoury ferment, so the sauce will need seasoning from elsewhere and will taste less of douban.
- More heat goes in the bowl. Whoever wants more adds it from the zero-prep tray: the chili oil or chili crisp you already own, ground roasted huajiao, black vinegar and scallion.
- For a 不辣 (, no heat) bowl tonight, cook a dish whose heat is a finish alongside, such as tomato and egg.
See every stop on the heat ladder, or set the heat for everyone at your table.
Storing an opened jar
Follow the label on your jar first. Beyond that, the cooks and sellers cited here agree on the fridge.
- Refrigerate once opened. The Woks of Life, The Mala Market, Viet World Kitchen, Chill Crisp and Omnivore’s Cookbook all keep opened paste in the fridge.
- Move bag or box packs into a clean jar with a lid (or another airtight container) as soon as you open them.
- Scoop with a clean, dry spoon.
- Date the lid. How long it lasts is where sources part ways: estimates run from about a year to indefinitely. Follow your label. If you are unsure whether a jar is still good, throw it out.
Sources
- Wikipedia — Doubanjiang
- Wikipedia — Pidu District, Chengdu
- Mission of the People’s Republic of China to the EU — Pixian doubanjiang, China–EU geographical-indications agreement product profile (in Chinese), December 2022
- EU Delegation to China (EEAS) — EU-China agreement protecting geographical indications enters into force
- IPKEY — Landmark agreement will protect 100 European geographical indications in China
- Fan Zhiyi et al. — Quality characteristics of different commercial Pixian broad bean-chili pastes, Food and Fermentation Industries 46(13), 2020 (in Chinese)
- GB/T 20560-2006, Product of geographical indication: Pixian douban — standard text as reproduced by Shenzhen Kenweier (in Chinese; Table 2 gives salt as 15–22 g per 100 g)
- Zhonghuasuo third-party testing lab (yjssi.com) — Pixian doubanjiang testing: GB/T 20560-2006 parameters (in Chinese)
- Sohu — How to choose Pixian doubanjiang: origin, grade and ingredient list (in Chinese)
- Mei Liao, Ugly Pantry — The Doubanjiang Guide
- The Mala Market — Sourcing Pixian Doubanjiang (Fermented Chili Bean Paste)
- The Mala Market — 3-Year Pixian Doubanjiang (product page: ingredients, allergens, storage)
- The Mala Market — Pixian Red-Oil Doubanjiang (product page: ingredients, uses, storage)
- The Woks of Life — La Doubanjiang (Spicy Bean Sauce)
- The Woks of Life — Sweet Bean Paste (non-spicy doubanjiang)
- The Woks of Life — Fermented Black Beans
- Andrea Nguyen, Viet World Kitchen — Doubanjiang Chile Bean Paste Mega Guide
- Xueci Cheng, Chill Crisp — Let’s talk about doubanjiang
- Omnivore’s Cookbook — Doubanjiang (Spicy Fermented Bean Paste)
- i am a food blog — Mapo tofu
- Lee Kum Kee USA — Chili Bean Sauce (Toban Djan): ingredients and allergens
- SPICEography — Toban Djan vs. Doubanjiang
- Burnt My Fingers — Taste Test: Douban Jiang (Sichuan chili bean paste)
- Chowmi — Doubanjiang Substitute
- Greedy Girl Gourmet — Doubanjiang Substitutes
- Holia — Pixian Douban Substitutes
- The Kitchen Abroad — Doubanjiang Substitutes
- Just One Cookbook — Doubanjiang (Chili Bean Paste)
- My Conscious Eating — Doubanjiang Substitutes
- Wikipedia — Gochujang
- Wikipedia — Miso
- Wikipedia — Douchi (fermented black beans)
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration — Sodium in Your Diet
- University of Florida IFAS Extension — Nutrition for Health and Fitness: Sodium in Your Diet
- Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center — 2-Gram Sodium Diet
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration — How to Understand and Use the Nutrition Facts Label
- 21 CFR 101.9 — Nutrition labeling of food (Cornell Legal Information Institute)
- 21 CFR 101.4 — Food; designation of ingredients (Cornell Legal Information Institute)
- USDA Foreign Agricultural Service, GAIN — China: General Rules for the Labeling of Prepackaged Foods (GB 7718-2011, unofficial translation)
- Foodmate — Interpretation of GB 7718-2011, labeling of prepackaged foods (in Chinese)
- Shanghai Food and Cosmetics Quality and Safety Management Association — Questions and answers on GB 28050-2011, nutrition labeling of prepackaged foods (in Chinese)
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration — Food Allergies
- MDBG Chinese Dictionary — entries for Pixian and douban
- Wiktionary — bàn (segment, petal)
- Wiktionary — pí (Pi County)